Filter bublé feedback loop
Writing about “well-made” fashion is fun and games until it’s all that’s shown within your filter bubble. And breaking through that bubble by resetting the algorithm is easier than it seems. 1. Always follow new accounts that post about stuff that you are not directly interested in. 2. Engage with content that isn’t of interest, a like here and there or a well-intended comment. 3. Have a good cocktail at a bar near you, aka go outside. Because as much as I, and many others, like to believe that there is a growing interest in sustainable fashion and better-made garments, that is not the case.
Two years ago, I worked on a presentation for the board of a Fortune 500 retailer. The outset was “conscious consumerism,” the buzzword that got every company a 5% bump in their share price when smuggled into a quarterly earnings report. It turns out that consumers at large do not give a flying flamingo about sustainability or conscious consumerism. What monkey say is not what monkey do. And while I can’t share the deck, the key point is that consumers are much more interested in signaling that they are conscious consumers than they are in trading off any benefits this might entail. This goes back to an example in the mid-20th century where marginally lower gas prices were available in the Los Angeles area, but they entailed driving to a gas station that was further away. The greater emissions and subsequently reduced savings from driving to a gas station that’s miles away outplayed the conscious consumer mindset.
TLDR, whatever people say or do online, let alone choose to share, and regardless of its the volume of times you are being exposed to it, or the number of engagements a topic receives, it is most likely that it is not part of the reality that 99% of the population experiences and cares about.
The Fabricateurialist
HQ brands - Moreau Paris
The leather goods maker traces its origins back to the 18th century, which practically makes it the oldest leather goods brand, given its founder’s passing in 1802, 27 years before Delvaux’s foundation. A mix of high-end leathers and innovative materials like the corn-based Eco Calf, cotton and linen canvas, and traditional Tourillon bull leather are used for Moreau’s products. Not to mention the semi-manually applied house pattern and exclusive production in France. It is
Blue de Chauffe
The French maker of leather bags branched out into workwear jackets and is now launching its French-made heavyweight t-shirt. Made in Europe, with a very competitive price point of €54,54, GOTS certified, and so on and so forth, it checks all the boxes. At 250gsm, it is double the weight of your average t-shirt. I’d classify this as the top end of midweight t-shirts because there are a myriad of 300-400gms t-shirts on the market these days. The t-shirt is a surprise entrant into the very competitive “well-made” segment, which is occupied by brands like Buck Mason in the US, Merz B Schwanen, and a slew of Japanese companies.
Sizing—I usually wear a 50 / M, but I picked this one in L. Although the sleeves, as mentioned in the video, are roomy, the body runs true to size. I’d advise you to check Bleu de Chauffe’s size chart.
Eddy Monetti
Eddy Monetti is a brand that often gets overlooked despite its traditional execution of Neapolitan tailoring and over 100 years of history. Founded in Naples in 1887, the brand gradually grew into the total-look brand that it is today. It offers a comprehensive RTW collection (shoes, shirts, jackets, outerwear, trousers, kntiwear and accessories) and a made-to-measure service that offers fabrics from all major mills, whether that is Loro Piana, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Draper’s, or Holland & Sherry. Its RTW shirts are available in machine and handmade variants, a rare option among menswear brands.
Exhibitions in Milan
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Legendary concept store 10 Corso Como is currently home to a Yohji Yamamoto exhibition (video). It is a retrospective on some of the designer’s more intricate designs on the upstairs level of the concept store. Meanwhile, Dolce & Gabbana’s “Dal cuore alle mane” exhibition at the Palazzo Reale will be held until July 31st. Containing only pieces from the brand’s Alta Sartoria (haute couture) collection, it is an impressive display of Italian craftsmanship and design, even more so considering that it is the only Italian brand active in this segment
Yohji Yamamoto at 10 Corso Como - Dolce & Gabbana at Palazzo Reale
DMs on TikTok and Instagram are open, so keep your questions coming