Let’s just say that there is sooo much more to jewelry than Bulgari, Cartier, and VCA. All of these are storied brands that produce beautiful pieces, but their most recognizable pieces like Cartier’s LOVE de Cartier or Juste un Clou, Bulgari’s B.zero1 and Diva Dream ranges, or Van Cleef’s inescapable Alhambra collection. So why not take a look at some brands that aren’t as popular at the moment but still come with a strong history, unique design, or both?
While it is probable that many people genuinely like these pieces within a condensed time frame, thus leading to a spike in popularity, the absence of hype surrounding any of them in the preceding decades suggests otherwise. I will note that filter bubbles and their feedback loops magnify the perception of trends, yet the Alhambra bracelet (and homages thereof) is omnipresent from Sanya to San Sebastian. Suggesting a need for conformity and continued signaling of egalitarian or superiority-complex driven status among peers. And that’s fine, don’t get me wrong, the concept of brand is all about recognizability, being top of mind among consumers in order to command a premium because all brand attributes like price, product, place, and promotion are established across a large enough set of the population. But why always pick the most obvious at a late stage of the trend cycle just to fit in ? Yes, I am implying that there are consumers who buy items because they want to signal something to strangers and not because they genuinely like a product. We are talking about items with next to no utility value, after all.
De Grisogono
De Grisogono is a prestigious Swiss luxury jeweler founded in Geneva in 1993 by Lebanese-Italian black diamond specialist and ex-Bulgari designer, that was a mouthful, Fawaz Gruosi. The Italian name Grisogono is derived from the Latin Chrysogonus which comes from the Greek Chrysogonos χρῡσό-γονος, meaning "begotten of gold".
The brand is known for pioneering the use of black diamonds. de Grisogono’s jewels are made of superlative stones with vivid hues and unusual dynamism.
In 1996, de Grisogono rose to prominence with the launch of its first collection of black diamonds. The de Grisogono black diamond collection sparked an uptick in collector interest in black diamonds which continues to this day. De Grisogono has handled many notable black diamonds, including the Spirit of de Grisogono diamond, which is the largest cut black diamond in the world.
The de Grisogono Instrumento No Uno watch collection was launched in 2000, and the now-iconic Allegra jewelry collection first appeared in 2003. Featuring delicately interwoven spirals, de Grisogono Allegra bracelets, earrings, rings, and necklaces are now offered at auction.
In 2017, the company set a new record at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale in Geneva when it sold the world’s biggest-ever emerald-cut diamond offered at auction. The 163.41-carat D Flawless stone, which was cut from a 404-carat rough, was incorporated into a necklace designed by Fawaz Gruosi. It fetched 33.5 million Swiss francs, beating the previous record for a D Flawless diamond by nearly five million Swiss francs.
Despite facing bankruptcy in 2020, in 2022, the de Grisogono brand was acquired by the Damac Group. Damac immediately announced a branded real estate project, and the jeweler has since continued operations.
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Torrini
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The Florentine jeweler is now run by the 24th generation. Founded in 1369, it is arguably the oldest jewelry firm in the world. Jacopus Turini Della Scharperia (or Scarperia) registered the company’s trademark in 1369 with the Blacksmiths and Armourers Guild of the Florentine Republic. The Torrini Goldsmith Family’s tradition of producing jewelry and artwork is passed down from father to son.
Some of their works, created by members of the family, are now displayed in museums worldwide. For instance, Giovanni di Turino’s (or Turini) Madonna and Child are exhibited at the National Gallery of Art Detroit Institute of Arts in the USA, while the Virgin with Child can be found at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in Washington, DC.
The museum bears witness to the secular activities of the Torrini Goldsmith Lineage with its seventeenth-century history. Among the museum works, there are rare examples of Renaissance silverware and several eighteenth-century and nineteenth-century brooches made of semiprecious stones.
Torrini’s history is filled with notable events and achievements. For instance, during the Wars of Italy between Spain and France, the Turini fled from Siena and returned to their homeland near Florence. They reunited with the family stock, transforming the patronymic surname Turini into Torrini, precisely as we know it today.
In 1921, Guido Torrini began his goldsmith business in the workshop in Piazza S. Trinita in Florence. Later, he opened jewelers around Italy. Guido is inspired by naturalistic motifs that combine the goldsmith tradition. He makes deco-style jewels and objets d’art in semi-precious stones enriched with gold.
Today, Torrini continues to create unique, handmade pieces that embody Italian craftsmanship and tradition. Each creation is a journey through beauty and excellence, with jewels that tell stories, emotions, and passion.
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Boucheron
Boucheron is another prestigious French jewelry house founded in 1858 by Frédéric Boucheron. It is the oldest French jeweler still in business today. The company was family-owned until 1994 and is now part of Kering.
Frédéric Boucheron opened his first shop in the arcades of the Palais Royal in Paris. His innovative designs and impeccable materials crafted into jewelry have garnered acclaim since its inception. In 1867, his innovative designs won him a gold medal at the Paris World Fair. In 1893, he became the first jeweler to open a boutique on the Place Vendôme.
Boucheron is known for its daring designs and pioneering use of black diamonds. The company has handled many notable diamonds, including the Polar Star, a 41-carat Golconda diamond, and the Grand Mazarin, a diamond that had passed from Cardinal Mazarin to a tiara belonging to Napoleon’s second wife, the Empress Marie-Louise.
The serpent has been associated with Boucheron since Frédéric gave his wife a necklace shaped like a snake as a token of love and protection while he was traveling.
Today, under its Italian owner, Kering, Boucheron continues to create unique, handmade pieces that embody French craftsmanship and tradition.
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Mellerio dits Meller
France’s oldest French jeweler, since 1613, was founded by the Mellerio family from Valle Vigezzo under the patronage of Marie de Médicis.
The brand is known for its “Mellerio cut”, a unique 57-facet jewel cut, shaped as an oval within an ellipse.
Today, Mellerio is based in rue de la Paix, Paris, with branches in Luxembourg and Japan. It is a member of the Comité Colbert and also of the Henokiens, an international club made up of family companies over 200 years old. Directors François and Olivier Mellerio are the fourteenth generation to run the family business.
Mellerio dits Meller has a rich history. The firm started trading in Versailles in 1777, and attracted the patronage of Queen Marie Antoinette. In 1796, they set up shop on rue Vivienne, Versailles, retaining the patronage of the Empress Josephine. Francois Mellerio moved the firm to Paris, initially at 4, rue du Coq Saint-Honoré. In 1815, he moved the workshop to 9, rue de la Paix in Paris, where it remains today.
The company has an archive of about 100,000 items. Notable works include the Coupe des Mousquetaires trophy, awarded to the winner of the Men’s Singles competition at the French Open in 1981. Mellerio has also made the ceremonial sword for members of the Académie française.
Mellerio dits Meller is intrinsically French and is renowned for its bespoke designs, personal service, and unwavering commitment to its craft. It truly embodies the spirit of craftsmanship and tailoring excellence.
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Wellendorff
Wellendorff is a renowned jewelry house founded in 1893 in Germany’s golden city of Pforzheim. It is the last jewelry manufactory in Germany, and it is still managed by its founding family. The fourth generation continues a tradition that stands for the highest standards in craftsmanship, precision, and love of detail.
The brand is known for its unique creations, often referred to as the world’s “softest necklaces” and the world’s “most vibrant rings,” which were inspired by very personal family love stories. These signature pieces showcase the company’s commitment to precision and perfection in detail.
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Wellendorff is known worldwide for the finest made-in-Germany goldsmithing. The jewelry factory specializes in 18-karat gold creations and adheres to genuine values.
“From its founding to the present day, Wellendorff has been creating timeless pieces that embody a love of detail and the highest standards of craftsmanship. Each piece tells a story, making every Wellendorff creation not just a piece of jewelry but a personal treasure.”
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