Rewoven
Same same but different - and why the same product from two stores might not be identical.
Why are you buying brands ? By brands, I mean all the companies that have a name that is put on their products. Because you have a defined expectation and set of values that either you attribute to the brand, or that the brand has taught you to associate it with.
Like every normal customer, when you go out and want to buy a blue blazer from Tailor Torino (made up for illustration purposes), you may find three different ones at slightly different prices at the stores in your neck of the woods, and online. It’s not much, but still a 20% price difference. Like every normal customer, you are most likely going to pick the cheapest of the three because why would you pay more for no apparent reason ?
Like every normal customer, you are happy with your blazer, and keep wearing it at summer weddings, functions, and to white tablecloth dinners.
Unlike every normal customer, you are spending time online, and the algorithm-hat has sorted into the fashion house, and you have come across this video and are now aware of the fact that artisanal brands, the ones that actually make the clothes, can offer different levels of quality to retailers. And now you are wondering, was sticking to small, independent brands a mistake all along ?
No, it was not. Let me explain.
Makers have direct control over their production, and they can make a shirt with three handmade steps or 25. They can make a suit with machine or hand-sewn pick stitches. You are still getting a product from the same brand, but at different price points - but why ? Retailers have target/existing customers who are willing to spend certain amounts on products. Sometimes a store may really want to stock TailorA because they like their 25-steps handmade shirts in Carlo Riva fabric, but their customer may only want to pay for the 11-step version in C-tier fabric. The store might opt for the 11-step shirt in a lower fabric quality/price to fill the price segment that its customers are comfortable spending money in. The same goes for trousers, tailoring, and outerwear - although in this category it comes mostly down to fabric choices and buying the same coat in cashmere instead of wool is obviously going to be more expensive.
Whenever you buy an artisanal brand from a multibrand boutique, you are still supporting the artisans, craftsmen, and a local business, instead of auditors and management sharehodlers who facilitate and benefit from a "Double Irish", Dutch Sandwich, or trademark and royalty fee-shifting schemes.
It is, in fact, this level of flexibility that small brands offer to retailers that helps both parties to stay in business. But it also requires increased product literacy levels among consumers, which is why you are reading this, and why I keep dissecting products - so that you can confidently evaluate whether you are getting a product that is worth your money, and the premium that the label may command over the utility value of a cheaper item in the same category.
- Fabricateurialist -
Pitti Uomo Spring Summer 27
Who: Everyone perceived it to be a less busy show. At the same time, brands largely reported that buyer quality was higher. This resulted in higher GMV orders and/or higher quality item selection. We will not know for certain how many people attended or did not attend until Pitti Imagine publishes official figures, but the aforementioned has been the se…
This water repellent, unlined, linen overcoat will soon become available on acitura.com. We have enough fabric for ten in speckled brown (photo) and a grey salt and pepper respectively. It is obviously made in Italy from Italian linen - there are not many mills that make water repellent overcoat fabrics, so take an educated guess where this one is from. The preorder price will be €1290 (the final retail price will be €1490 - if it does not sell out), including shipping.
Miscellaneous
A new season of denim reviews will begin in July, and next week will feature some more Milan Fashion Week coverage as well as reporting from Pitti Filati with Mauro from Wolf vs Goat.
Everyone who requested to preorder Manto jackets, you will receive images of next season’s designs by EOD.
ICYMI - the Oxford-blue is the last one to become available for preorder soon
Thank you to everyone who has placed their orders for the light blue and white OCBDs so far - everything is being cut and sewn as we type.
YouTube, DMs on TikTok, and Instagram are open.
I’m interested in the manto preorder if still available, no worries if not