Luxury is not in crisis -
when you are an independent company
Pitti Uomo/Immagine took place in Florence last week and there is a lot to talk about.
First off, brands sounded optimistic, seeing a gradual recovery and growth for their businesses, and no one echoed the sentiment of fast luxury’s slow down (or correction as I’d describe it). Orders were stable or up on a YoY basis, and plenty of buyers from around the world were in attendance with international exhibitors from the U.S. West Coast to Japan.
Trends
The “quiet luxury” / 50 shades of beige that Brunello Cucinelli has made a core pillar of its design language remain dominant next season. Instead of solids, we will be seeing more melanges and moulines that give the garments more depth and visual nuance. The few colors that were consistent across brands are reds - inspired by wines, greens inspired by fall foliage, and browns that are offshoots of vicuna.
Beaver fur has fully replaced any and all faux/”sustainable” furs. There was only one brand that had products with faux fur trims, all others were natural. We are all adults and can form our own opinions about whether fur is needed or not, and answer it based on our own values and beliefs if we are okay with beaver fur - the complete abandonment of faux fur despite years of campaigns and Stella McCartney advocacy stood out as an important shift among true luxury brands and their consumers’ preferences.
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