Sustainable fashion materials
The UK of all places hosts the Future Fabrics EXPO
Among the usual suspects, like the protein-brewed fiber maker Spiber, or the never-ending list of polyester recyclers and mycelium leather alternatives, there are a couple of companies that go off the beaten path with their innovations. But before we get to that, take a look at the image below.
These two yarn and woven fabric examples are hideously expensive compared to natural fibers, which is important to highlight given that most people’s perception of recycled polyester being a cheaper solution that is used to “rip off customers” or “maximize shareholder value” is not rooted in reality, in most cases anyway. You can get Chinese-made cashmere sweaters with a lower US FOB price ($25) than the kg price of this recycled yarn.
Grape marc PU leather
Planet of the Grape’s bio-PU blend includes polyurethane, which the company is trying to phase out, and 84% grape marc won from the wine industry’s byproduct. The grape marc is sourced in France and processed in Italy before being delivered to brands.
Himalayan nettle
Himalayan nettle is a textile fiber with a micron count that typically ranges between 20 to 50, similar to linen. The fiber has a relatively long staple length of 300mm. When processed, Himalayan nettle yields a fabric with a unique handfeel that can be described as having a crisp drape similar to linen, that softens with wear and washing over time. It requires no pesticides or irrigation, and its cultivation and processing have a low ecological footprint, which is why it is becoming increasingly popular in the sustainable fibers space..
Casa Spongebob
PIÑAYARN® is ANANAS ANAM’s foray into yarns. The yarn is a blend of 30% come from Blended with 70% Lyocell/Tencel that has been recycled under the REFIBRA™ process. For this Lenzing upcycles cotton scraps from garment production. These scraps are transformed into cotton pulp, which is then combined with wood pulp to create new Lyocell / Tencel fibers. Prices per cone/kg range between €12-€17, depending on the yarn count and blend.
ANANAS ANAM has had Piñatex in its portfolio for years. Derived from the cellulose fibers of pineapple leaves, a byproduct of existing pineapple harvests. Its production has an eco-impact that is about 2/3x less than polyurethane synthetic leather and 9x less than traditional animal leather, largely due to utilizing agricultural waste and requiring no additional land, water, or pesticides for the raw material. Its coated versions offer enhanced water repellence which makes this “vegan” leather alternative suitable for bags, wallets, belts, footwear, upholstery, and even automotive interiors. The price ranges between €45-€58 per meter - which makes it signficantly more expensive than calf leather.
Uncaged by what has been
Uncaged Innovations has created sustainable, grain-based leather alternatives. Their patented BioFuze technology allows them to replicate the structure of collagen found in animal skins using plant-based elements.
The materials used to create Uncaged’s leather alternative consist of:
Grain byproducts: These make up about 60% of the material.
Plant polymers: These constitute approximately 30% of the material.
Plant oils: These account for about 5% of the material.
Natural ingredients: This includes colorants and makes up less than 5% of the material.
Plant-based fabric: This is used as a backing layer, typically ranging from 0.3 to 0.5 mm in thickness.
Uncaged Innovations' material is designed to be biodegradable, toxin-free (as no tanning is required), and it claims to offer significant environmental benefits compared to traditional leather, including up to 95% fewer greenhouse gases, 93% less water usage, and 72% less energy consumption.
Genziana 2/48
Suedwolle developed Naturetexx®, a plasma-based process that only uses air and plasma, powered by renewable energy instead of a chlorine-based process that is conventionally used to achieve the same result that makes wool machine washable. Garments made from this yarn can be machine-washed and tumble-dried while maintaining the natural properties and benefits of wool. The yarn is suitable for garments and accessories.
Malai Eco
Blending bacterial cellulose, banana stem fibre, hemp fibre, sisal fibre, natural gums, drying oils, natural biodegradable polymer, and flower waste has yielded Malai Eco's unique sheet material that it turns into accessories traditionally made from leather.